This "Chat" forum is designed to answer questions directly related to Loes Hinse Design Patterns. Loes will respond to specific questions relating to the drafting of her patterns. The inquiries and responses appear below.

1. Narrowing a pant leg.
2. Printing all questions.
3. Adding back waist length to accommodate a longer back and rounded shoulders.
4. General fitting problems.
5. Reminder about the intent of this chat forum.
6. New York Dress Pattern
7. Scarf fabric recommendations.
8. Intimidated by new couture patterns.
9. How to use the selvage for the hem on the tatters knit. Is this fabric o.k. for the Criss Cross Top?
10. Jacket w/o Shoulder Pads
11. Pants pattern for a shorter person.
12. Style/fit differences between Cruise and Basic Pleat (w/o pleats) pants patterns.
13. Bolero Multiples View D
14. Oxford and Hepburn Pant fit adjustments
15. Response
16. Full Bust Adjustment
17. Hepburn Pant Instructions
18. More Hepburn questions
19. Sweater Coat pattern/sleeves too short.
20. Hepburn Pants - which view?
21. Refers back to Chat 10.
22. Jacket pattern for boiled wool.
23. More on Chat Question #18-Hepburn Pants Pattern Directions
24. Zipper Jacket Info
25. Bolero Multiples pattern lapel.
26. Boiled wool
27. Retro Jacket and the arms.
28. Hepburn Pant back seam
29. Heavy Knit fabric/Garbo Jacket
30. Bolero pattern question.
31. Lace Jacket Shoulder Pads
32. Pant 'tweak' on Oxford Pants
33. Mother of the Bride needs a pretty dress!
34. Bolero Jacket Length Questions
35. Rolled Hem Question - "Possibilities" -The Trip
36. What do I wear under a lace tank?
37. Kimono Jacket Pattern
38. "New Alternate" View B, Hepburn Pants
39. Hepburn Pant Question
40. Just Started Sewing with Loes Hinse Patterns
41. Jacket Recommendation
42. Follow-up questions - pants
43. Possibilities Chat
44. Jacket Pattern Suggestion
45. Sewing/Fitting Questions
46. Patterns/Fabric
47. Jacket Pattern w/Italian Blouse
48. Garbo Jacket Facing

1. Narrowing a pant leg.

QUESTION:

If one wants to narrow pants legs (beyond pattern's smallest size), are both outseam and inseam involved in the reduction, or just outseams? I tried narrowing the Oxford Pants by reducing both side and inseams-up to 12" from top-and found my leg was "sticking" to the inseam side, it wasn't even. I'd like to reduce the leg to about 20".

LOES' RESPONSE:

All my pants patterns have different features. When each of them was designed, I had a different thought in mind. I have several different pants patterns all having different fits so that there would be a broad appeal-different styles for different preferences and needs.

The intended design/fit for the Oxford Pant is a fuller leg. The seat of the Oxford is designed for a fuller leg. To drastically change the shape by narrowing the leg destroys the intended pattern design. For those wanting a narrower leg, the Cruise Pant Pattern is drafted for that need. The seat of the Cruise is drafted for a narrower leg.

Therefore, my answer to a narrower leg is to use my Cruise Pant Pattern.

2. Printing all questions.

QUESTION:

Are you going to print all the questions on this page or are you responding to each question individually? I would love to hear/see what inquiries others have as well as my own.

LOES' RESPONSE: Yes, we intend to print all of the questions/answers.

3. Adding back waist length to accommodate a longer back and rounded shoulders.

QUESTION:

It would be helpful to know what the back waist lengths are on the various size drafts. I need to add to the back waist length at the neck area (not the waist) to accommodate a longer back and rounded shoulders. It would be good toknow where the necklines should be located as drafted by Loes.

LOES' RESPONSE:

First of all, the fitting issues involving the neck have nothing to do with the waist length. It has to do with the slope of the shoulder. More specific information is needed. What is the specific problem created? The problem could arise from a variety of issues. Do you have a hump? What are the pitch of the shoulders? Is there pulling?

LOES' FURTHER RESPONSE:

Without seeing this person, it is difficult to know for sure where the problem lies. Photos were requested. Two photos were emailed of the shoulder area and the entire blouse which was the Tunic top.

The following is my response:

"The blouse is gorgeous. Excellent sewing. Perfect fabric. There is nothing wrong with your blouse. The drape is perfect. The angle on the shoulder is supposed to be there!"

When my daughter saw the photo, she said, "That looks like a blouse that would be sold in your boutique".

The person asking the question included this later: I've made the Classic Coat recently, and I don't have the problem with the shoulders, but I have pads in it. I've been stopped in restaurants, and complimented on that one. Love it!

(Loes uses shoulder pads to solve many fit problems in the shoulder area.)
4. General fitting problems.

QUESTION:

I have some fitting problems I need help with. I have narrow, rounded sloping shoulders, large arms (I go up 2 sizes for the sleeve) and a C-cup. How would you adjust for these fitting challenges? Do you recommend choosing a top pattern by the upper bust measurement and then adjusting for the problems?

LOES' RESPONSE:

We need questions regarding specific patterns for Loes to address.

Note: I do not use upper bust measurements. If there is a fitting issue in that area, I work with shoulder pads.
5. Reminder about the intent of this chat forum.

A REMINDER:

Many chat rooms currently available are designed to accomodate a variety of sewing questions.

This "Chat" is designed for questions directly relating to Loes Hinse Design Patterns. Loes will respond to specific questions- including fitting-as they relate to a specific pattern. She will also respond to general drafting questions as they relate to her patterns.

We do not intend to eliminate anybody or their questions. But we do need to maintain our focus.
6. New York Dress Pattern

QUESTION:

On page 15 of the latest S Magazine, you talk about a black matte jersey dress. However, I'm not finding any mention of what pattern was used? Please fill us in.

RESPONSE: This questions has been answered by a revision on page 15! Inadvertently, the pattern reference was omitted. It has been corrected.

The answer is the New York Dress Pattern.
7. Scarf fabric recommendations.

QUESTION:

I'm planning to make the Bolero jacket with the brown/black chenille, MB 425, and wonder if there was any scarf fabric you might recommend. I like the scarf you had in the winter S Magazine-or even something less dressy. I also have a Bolero Jacket with J205B, Bronze/Black Sparkle Rayon w/Stitched Diamonds. Any scarf fabric recommendations for this?

LOES RESPONSE:

Am not sure which scarf you are referring to in the S Magazine. There are several.

On page 14, at the bottom of the page, are some burned out velvets, BG 101, light tan background w/rust and black stems and leaves or CF 661, taupe background w/multi color flowers and both work very well with your jackets.

Also, the new CD has information regarding color choices for scarves. That would be a great reference for you to use.
8. Intimidated by new couture patterns.

QUESTION:

I am a little intimidated by the new couture patterns being a long time sewer but not having any formal training. Can a beginner manage the new patterns?

RESPONSE:

Yes, you can 'manage' the new couture patterns!

This couture is not traditional couture. It is couture my way. It will be a little more involved. Anybody who can make my most complicated patterns can make the couture patterns. An example of complicated patterns would be the Tuxedo or the Bistro Jacket and the European Pants.

If you anticipate the couture patterns being more complicated, they WILL be. So, don't think that way and it WILL NOT be that way!
9. How to use the selvage for the hem on the tatters knit. Is this fabric o.k. for the Criss Cross Top?

QUESTION:

Loes used the TG 735, Olive/Brown Tatter Knit, for a top and it says the selvage was cut off and serged to the hem and sleeve to eliminate hemming. Could you please explain this a little further? Was the serged seam then topstitched? Can't picture how to do it.

RESPONSE:

Cut off the hem allowance except for 3/4" on back, front, and sleeve pattern pieces. Sew the top as usual following pattern instruction up to the point of hemming. Measure the diameter of the bottom of garment and sleeves. Cut 1 1/2" strips along the selvage the length of the diameter measurements. The selvage will be on one side of the strip. The strips can be slightly smaller than the diameter measurements to allow for slight stretching when applying. Divide the garment bottom (& sleeves) into fourths and mark. Sew the strips into cylinders. Divide the strips into fourths and match up w/fourths on garment. Pin to hold in place. Serge the strips to the garment stretching slightly. No need to topstitch.

QUESTION:

Also, is this fabric o.k. for the Criss Cross Top? After seeing it (it's pretty busy), would a plain-front top be better, like the Bianca?

RESPONSE:

Technically, either pattern could be used. The Bianca would be best. The Criss Cross top has more seams which would not be noticeable with the tatters.
10. Jacket w/o Shoulder Pads

QUESTION:

I was just wondering if there pretty please could be a jacket designed without shoulder pads? I would just love it.

RESPONSE:

Designing jackets without shoulder pads is not the look I do. It is completely different. I would suggest going to a different pattern line where this type of garment would be included.

If you have ever looked at a couture jacket, they are not made without shoulder pads. The shoulder pad supports the sleeve cap, and it would look caved in without it. It would destroy the look.

Since I follow fashion, if fashion were to change drastically and eliminate shoulder pads, I would consider at that time designing a different look. It would be in line with a new, current fashion trend.

Another suggestion: Use a blouse pattern for a 'jacket look' rather than a jacket pattern.
11. Pants pattern for a shorter person.

QUESTION:

1. Are the legs on the Cruise pant narrower than the legs on the Euro pant? I am looking for a pant pattern with a fairly fitted leg, with a mild flare on the bottom.

2. Can you tell me of a way to manually make machine buttonholes, instead of using the pre-programmed ones?

RESPONSE:

2. Check with your sewing machine dealer. Machines vary.

After for more input regarding Question #1 - if a '70's look was what she was looking for, the person asking the question included this information: I am definitely not looking for a '70's look. Being 5' 2" - I would love to wear more drapey pants, but in RTW - they make me look about 20 lbs. heavier, with the extra fabric. I am looking for a pattern with narrower legs, and lets just say - not a tapered hem. So, in terms of your rayons, tencils, microfibers, etc., what is your suggestion for the best fitting pants pattern?

RESPONSE:

Either the Hepburn or the Oxford Pant Pattern would work well. The drape of the fabric is crucial. This will elminiate the look of 'bulk' or extra fabric. You can also enhance the look by wearing heels or wedge shoes. This adds height and a longer look.

The Hepburn Pant is the NEW pant look. You will see this as a predominant fashion trend this spring. You can use both views of the Hepburn - short rise or longer rise. You don't have to tuck in your top. You may want to wear a shorter top with this look. I am 5' 1 1/2" tall with a very long waist and no legs. I wear an XS. The Hepburn is a fabulous pant for me. My tops just graze the bottom of the waist elastic if worn on the outside. If I tuck the top in, it softly falls inside the fabric above the waist. For comfort, I only use one pant hook at the top of the zipper. I drove for 5 hours going to LA wearing this pant that way. It was extremely comfortable. I always wear a wedge shoe or a heel.

A shorter jacket also looks great with this look. The Bistro Jacket is a good choice for a more tailored look. The Bergman Blouse can be made into a jacket opening the CF and adding facings. Both look fabulous with this trouser.

(The Bergman made into a jacket could be an answer for the Chat Question regarding a jacket without shoulder pads.)
12. Style/fit differences between Cruise and Basic Pleat (w/o pleats) pants patterns.

QUESTION:

In describing pants, what are the style/fit differences between the Basic Pleated Pant (without the pleats) and the Cruise Pant patterns?

RESPONSE:

The Cruise Pant is a slimmer fit. The Basic Pleat is a fuller fit. The basic concept is the same. Both are bigger on top and smaller on the bottom.
13. Bolero Multiples View D

QUESTION:

I am making a muslin out of the Boloro Multiple pattern View D. The collar will not lie flat. It just sticks up and is awfully big. I was wondering what I may have done to make this happen. I have never made the bolero original.

When asked what fabric did you use for your muslin? The answer was regular muslin fabric.

LOES RESPONSE:

My patterns are intended for use with drapey fabric. You will see fabric recommendations on the back of the pattern envelope. Muslin is a stiff, non-drapey fabric and will not work with my patterns. You may get some idea about sizing through the chest, but you will not know how the jacket will look.

If you feel the need to make a trial garment, I suggest making the garment using another fabric that is compatible with the pattern. Perhaps you have an inexpensive piece in your stash. The trial fabric must be compatible with the pattern fabric recommendations or there will be problems.
14. Oxford and Hepburn Pant fit adjustments

QUESTION:

I am excited about trying the Hepburn Pant. In the past, I have had to make a "flat butt" adjustment in both the Oxford and European Pant in order to remove excess fabric/folds in the back, even when using my correct size (my hips measure 38 1/2 and I cut a small) by taking a horizontal tuck in the back leg just below the crotch tapering to nothing at the side seams. Do you have a better suggestion? I want drape, not baggy!

Further information was requested. How much do you need to take out of the back? And how does the waist fit?

The response was: I usually overlap my horizontal, just below the "hook slash" about 3/8 for a total of may 3/4". The waist fits fine, my true waist is about 27 inches, but I like my pants to hit lower, at about 31 inches. I didn't change anything about the waist of the Oxfords, except to curve them down a bit in the waist in the front. If I don't alter, say the Oxford pants, I could pinch out maybe a half inch (vertical) tuck below the butt. I have a little saddlebag problem, not bad though, so I definitely want to keep the drape straight from the hip - most people say I'm "slim", but you know how we all see ourselves!! I really want the Hepburn to be my "new" pant!!

LOES RESPONSE:

Regarding the Oxford pants, try making a size smaller. Also, cutt off 1" straight across the top of both front and back rather than "curving down" in the front.

For the Hepburn pant, if you want them lower, fold up 1" in the rise taking off 1" on the front and on the back. It is folded out due to the nature of the waistline. Use an extra small size.

Do not do anything horizontal. You are messing up the pattern!

If one size smaller is too much, use an XS in the back and a small in the front. Do not do anything horizontal.
15. Response

We would love to hear from you after trying the suggestions Loes offers.
16. Full Bust Adjustment

QUESTION:

If I am doing a full bust adjustment to the Cowl Top in the manner Loes suggested last winter, do I add anything at the cowl neckline to equal what was added to raise at neckline? I guess the same question would apply to any jacket facings.

RESPONSE:

Yes, you should add to the cf neckline the same amount as you added at the shoulder/neckline intersection. You may also find it helpful to add this same amount to the top of the side seam on the garment front under the arm. Draw a new curve on the garment front starting just below the front notch and ending at the side seam. This will make the garment front longer than the back. Ease in the difference in the bust area when sewing the side seam.

And yes, this adjustment should be done on jacket fronts and facings. It works for all 'tops'.
17. Hepburn Pant Instructions

QUESTION:
I just purchased the Hepburn pant after reading your review on "S Magazine". It sounded like a style that I would really like.

After reading through the instructions, I am totaly confused on the order of construction; it seems like the steps are all out of sequence. There are a couple of sewists on www.artisanssquare.com (on the Loes Hinse pattern discussion group) that have been discussing the instructions and everyone is confused and frustrated.

Here are a few of our questions:

1. The instructions for the elastic are very confusing. The elastic is described after Step #25, which is after the zipper is sewn in place. But the Note after Step #25 says to insert the elastic BEFORE the zipper. Is this correct? This is VERY confusing.

LOES' RESPONSE:

You are right! The instructions are very confusing and complicated. The instructions are a guideline into my techniques. It was difficult for me to write them. The result is what seems like an odd construction process. It is a Ready to Wear process resulting in a finished product with little or no hand stitching. The 'wierd' way of constructing is a method allowing getting inside of the garment to complete with machine stitching rather than hand stitching. In order to accomplish this, the construction order has to be modified in a 'non traditional' way. And because the process is so different, it is very confusing. When reading the instructions, it may appear illogical. This pattern is all about making a good pair of pants. This is couture sewing, and the instructions are intended to be a guideline. You are obviously into sewing and have a great knowledge of how to sew. Let the instructions be a guideline, use your own knowledge and expertise, and you will have a great pair of pants!

I agree it would be less confusing to have the "Note after Step #25 appear before Step 25. It seemed better to have the sequence of Steps 21 through 25 than to break it up with the Note on the elastic.

QUESTION #2:

On Step #16, the second "Note", why doesn't the center front interfacing have a seam allowance?

RESPONSE:

The absence of an interfacing seam allowance eliminates bulk. The interfacing used is fusible so should be held in place with the fusing. Having the fabric plus interfacing in the seam allowance would result in more bulk.

QUESTION #3:

On Step #23, it is "PIC #14".....what does this mean?

RESPONSE:

There is an error regarding "PIC 14"! It should have been eliminated from the final printing! That is a reference used in organizing the pattern instructions which has nothing to do with the actual construction process. So, please overlook the reference to "PIC 14"! Will have it eliminated from future pattern printing.

FURTHER QUESTION COMMENTS:

We know that Loes is unconventional, but her instructions are usually in order, step by step, and as we follow each instruction, we reach the final product....everything goes together very well. I haven't tried to actually sew this yet, because I like to feel secure about the instructions before I cut into my fabric. If I've read the instructions prior to cutting into the fabric, I know I can "buzz right along" constructing the garment. But this patterns' instructions aren't flowing in my head.

LOES RESPONSE:

As mentioned earlier, these instructions are very different. They are 'unconventional', and they are "my couture style of sewing", which relates to the process used in higher end Ready to Wear. There is nothing 'tradtional' about it.

You are an experienced sewist, relate well to following directions, and have done a good job analyzing these instructions. Rather than getting 'hung up' reading these instructions, I strongly suggest making a 'mock up' out of tissue paper. Cut out the pattern pieces using the tissue paper making sure to include all markings and labe each pattern piece. Then go through the construction process using these pieces. You will get an idea how it all fits together. Then keep the 'mock up' with your pattern instructions for future reference.

These pants do take extra time and effort. It requires approaching the construction process differently. As an accomplished sewer, you can do this! Once the construction process is mastered, your efforts will be rewarded with a better looking pant. However, if the insturctions in this pattern require too much time and are too confusing, make the pants and use a tradtional waistband and zipper insertion. That will work! Cut off the facing above the waistline leaving a 3/8" seam allowance. Adjust the darts to your waist measurement and add the waistband and zipper. You will have a great pair of trousers!

THE LAST QUESTION WAS A QUESTION TO SHARON:

I know in your article in "S", you mentioned that you had a few calls to Loes before your slacks were complete. Were your questions similar to ours?

SHARON'S RESPONSE:

Yes, they were similar! Then I made the 'mock up' out of tissue paper. Once I saw how everything went together (which was certainly different from any traditional method I had done), it was a matter of, "Oh, now I get it!" And I did. And my pants are wonderful. The machine finishing gives a nice, professional look. And the elastic sitting lower is extremely comfortable. Also, I would suggest making View A with the higher rise first. The pattern directions are more focused on that view. I do, however, personally prefer the the lower rise. This pant is also good for a sway back as it sits lower at the waist. (Also, this waistband/zipper is somewhat similar to the Euro's.)

I also will interject - I have seen a couple of people making this pant at the seminar - prior to Loes's demonstration - with great success. I think they were more 'hands on learners' (as I am) rather than 'reading instructions learners'. Personally, I think once you see - i.e. the 'mock up' - how it all fits together, it will make sense.

Spring Fashion Reviews indicate the 'Hepburn Pant' is everywhere!

18. More Hepburn questions

The following questions are similar to the previous ones.

QUESTION:

I just bought this newest pant last week and need help with the insturctions. The order of sewing on the instructions has one construct the facing and the fly first, then insert the zipper. But then the NOTE after step #25 says that the elastic will be sewn into the facing before the zipper gets put in and then goes on to the elastic insertion process in step #26. Which is correct?

RESPONSE:

Do the elastic first.

QUESTION:

Is the illustration next to step #24 what step #23 refers to as "PIC 14, or is there an illustration missing?

RESPONSE:

Please refer to the previous person's questions. The PIC #14 should NOT be there!

QUESTION:

I can't figure out how the elastic is supposed to be sewn or inserted. It appears that the elastic is inserted similarly to the Euro's. Please help.

RESPONSE:

The elastic insertion is very similar to the Euros. Please refer to the previous questions and do the 'mock up' before making the pant.
19. Sweater Coat pattern/sleeves too short.

QUESTION:

I made the shaggy off-white fabric in the coat pattern and love it. Get lots of compliments on it but my questions is when I put the sleeves in they were too short so had to add a piece. Has anyone else had this problem?

RESPONSE:

(The shaggy off-white fabric was fabric offered at the seminars.)

Always think about the end result before cutting. Measure the pattern pieces. If the sleeve measures too short, lengthen the sleeves. Don't take anything for granted!
20. Hepburn Pants - which view?

QUESTION:

I ordered the Hepburn pant pattern. I am very short waisted, so do you think the view with the more shallow waist trim will look bad?

RESPONSE:

That view is your best choice. Use View B. And you don't need to tuck you top into these pants. To make the waist appear longer, leave the tops out. You may want to use a shorter top so it doesn't hang a long way down on the pants.
21. Refers back to Chat 10.

Thanks so much about your response about jackets and shoulder pads. I actually was curious because I was thinking of sewing something up in a drapey tencel twill or a heavier weight sueded silk (like something out of the J. Jill catalog) and my thinking was that a shoulder pad for this project would stand out too much. Your suggestion for using a blouse pattern was genius (like why didn't I think of that!!!). Thanks again.

FURTHER QUESTION:

Which jacket would you most recommend for silk tweed?

When asked about weight of the silk, the response was it was a tiny bit drapey.

RESPONSE:

If the fabric is not very drapey, non of my patterns will work. You would be better off with a blazer type pattern.
22. Jacket pattern for boiled wool.

QUESTION:

Which jacket pattern would you recommend for the boiled wool and do you have any suggestions on the seaming detail?

LOES' RESPONSE:

The Sweater Coat pattern doing a shorter version. For seaming detail, do not use the serger. Can do inside-out technique with seams on the outside.
23. More on Chat Question #18-Hepburn Pants Pattern Directions

QUESTION:

We have heard that some sewers are still not satisfied with the Response to Question #18 regarding the Hepburn Pant construction.

LOES' RESPONSE:

My new Couture Pattern Line relates to a different level of sewing. As mentioned earlier, it is my version of couture which is a high-end RTW approach. My couture directions are about 'process', not about 'exact how-to' directions. I have carefully thought out the construction directions on the new Hepburn Pant Pattern. It is about a process of attaining a great pant with a finished look and no hand sewing. I am not going to rewrite the directions. If you do not understand my construction process as described, I am sorry. I have done my best. I have treated this pattern the same way as I have treated every other pattern in my line. I will not depart from my philosophy.

It is implied that this Couture pattern line is geared for skilled sewers. I understand many of you who have directly and indirectly communicated with the "Chat" are experienced, skilled sewers. I have answered the questions and given a solution. If these answers and my solution don't work for you, I am sorry. There is no mystery in how the pieces fit together. They mystery is the sequence. Do your own sequence if necessary.

I stand by my solution - first of all, make a 'mock up'. That is a solution. If you are unwilling to do this, there is nothing more I can suggest other than to construct a 'traditional' waistband and zipper. The pattern pieces do fit together. You can construct the pants using a different sequence, i.e. zipper first, then waistband, finishing with hand sewing where necessary. You will get the same look. You can do the waistband/zipper like the Euro Pant Pattern. You can take out the front darts and put elastic in the waist. You will still have a great looking pair of pants.

I appreciate your loyalty to my patterns. If this pant doesn't work for you, I would suggest you try a different pattern.
24. Zipper Jacket Info

QUESTION:

Loved the garments, fabrics and interpretations on your gallery page from the seminars. The zipper jacket has been one of my basics since it came out because it's simple and the fabric does the talking. I've done it so many times and was excited to see your photos. I have a wonderful piece of faux rabbit fur which is basically a velvet with a longer pile and also a soft, lizard embossed pleather that has knit backing. Would this work for the short Zipper jacket and are there any modifications recommended with the zipper and topstitching?

Second, and related question. I understand from somewhere that the shoulder pad that Casual Elegance sells now is a bit larger. Would that one be recommended for the Zipper Jacket?

RESPONSE:

Glad you like the zipper jacket! I cannot respond to the questions regarding fabric recommendations without seeing the fabric. As you know, all fabrics used for my patterns need to have drape. If these fabrics are drapey, they should work.

Regarding the larger shoulder pads, yes - they work for the Zipper Jacket or any of my jackets. These are the pads I now use for my boutique garments.
25. Bolero Multiples pattern lapel.

QUESTION:

In the basic bolero pattern, the collar at the back of the neck stands up and does not fold over but rather glides around the neck and then lays flat over the front.

What about View C of the Bolero Multiples? The collar piece is wider than the basic bolero at the back of the neck and then there are lapels that fold over the front. I am having trouble making the lapels lay flat as they come around the neck and was wondering if the collar is meant to fold down at the back of the neck. I used S 503, Multi-Brown Boucle Sweater Knit.

RESPONSE:

The upper collar is larger than the under collar to allow for the fabric to fold. Compare the pattern pieces with the finished jacket to find out how much they have stretched. I think when understitching the neckline of the bolero multiple jacket, the fabric stretched. After stretching, it won't roll. A lapel does not work with this type of fabric. The knit fabric you used is not suitable for this jacket. This knit works for a top such as the Bianca. A cardigan would work with this fabric if the neckline is stabilized.

QUESTIONER'S RESPONSE:

I think Loes is right about the material and the stretching - plus I'm not used to working with knit fabrics either. I think I still have some leftover fabric so I will re-do the lapel as a basic bolero.

When you say stabilize, do you mean just stitching it so it doesn't stretch? I know they also sell strips that get stitched to the material, but I have never used them.

Now, even though this knit wasn't right for this type of lapel, can you tell me if the collar at the back of the neck is supposed to fold down or stay up as in the basic bolero? I want to make this again in the right fabric but I did notice that the pattern piece at the back of the neck was bigger than the original bolero.

LOES' RESPONSE:

The bolero multiple lapel folds down.

To do the original bolero jacket out of your knit fabric, use a stable fabric for the inside of the lapel. Do not stretch when stitching them together. Stitch the jacket body onto the lapel with the stable fabric facing up. Because the lapel is likely to 'pull up' and the jacket will 'sag' a little, make both lapel pieces a little longer. Stabilize the original jacket fabric before sewing the lapel back on.

Regarding your stabilizing question : We recommend lingerie elastic for stabilizing. It is cut in half with the cut edge serged to the cut edge of the fabric. There are several references to this technique in various editions of S Magazine. When doing a cardigan neckline, measure the neckline and fronts (finished length) and cut the elastic that same measurement. On the elastic mark the center back and shoulder seams. When stitching the elastic to a cardigan, be sure these match up or the fronts will not be the same length.
26. Boiled wool

QUESTION:

Which jacket pattern would you recommend for the boiled wool and do you have any suggestions on the seaming detail?

RESPONSE:

The Sweater Coat Pattern. Do the 'inside-out' technique (See earlier S Magazine)having the seams on the outside.
27. Retro Jacket and the arms.

QUESTION:


When I made the Retro Jacket pattern, I have difficulty raising my arms. Does this mean I need to raise the armholes? Would I then have to change the sleeve? I would like to try the pattern again. The pressure points are biceps of both arms when raised. Also, the back is tight. If I want to reach for something overhead, the jacket would restrict me. I really like the pattern so I want to make it fit. To make the jacket, I used a jacquard fabric which was not very drapey. I just want to be able to move in my clothes. Don't reach up high that frequently. I used a knit fabric for the Criss Cross Top and love it. And the boatneck fits me. I am thinking I should remake the Retro jacket in a drapey, soft fabric. That is probably a better test of the pattern. I am interested in the Bistro Jacket. Does Loes use the same fit model for all her patterns:

LOES' RESPONSE:

All of my patterns are drafted for drapey fabric and REQUIRE this type of fabric. The fabric has to have some movement and some 'give'. The patterns will not fit as they are intended to fit when using any other fabric.

Yes, I use the same fit model for all of my patterns.

The Criss Cross and Boat Neck tops fit well because they are made from knits and have some stretch and give.

Raising the arms tends to make jackets pull. That is why I wear T shrits when I work!

Please realize I am making a recommendation based on what I am hearing not what I am seeing. If I saw you, I might see a different problem. That is why it is always helpful to take the seminar and get more insight!

But based on your information, it sounds as if you have a 'V shaped' back and need some extra room across the shoulders. For your jackets, I suggest using a larger size for the upper part of the jacket - front and back and taper down to a smaller size at the rib cage level. You would need to use the corresponding sleeve size tapering down if needed.
28. Hepburn Pant back seam

QUESTION:

I've noticed on the Hepburn Pant inseam that the front inseam is quite a bit longer than the back inseam. Should this ease be distributed evenly along the seam or concentrated in a particular area of the seam for the best results? Or do you recommend "stretching" the back inseam to fit in the areas where it is more on the bias?

LOES RESPONSE:

The back inseam is supposed to be shorter than the front. This makes the crotch pull around the body giving a good fit eliminating problems such as 'smiles'. This secret to good fit is a reason why you can't accurately copy RTW garments. Designers build these 'secrets' into their design creating a great fit.

There is a lot of bias in the back seam. Do not stretch it. Sew the seam letting the bias take care of itself.
29. Heavy Knit fabric/Garbo Jacket

QUESTION:

I have 3 yards of TG 726 - Blue/Taupe knit from Early Fall '06 and the newsletter suggestion was a Bianca Top.

Original thought was to make a Garbo jacket (based on pattern photo) but after the seminar, Loes told me it's not my best cut due to my lack of waist - made me look like a BOX and Loes is always right! I figure I can make a boat neck top and a tank top but what I really need are jackets for work. I fear making another mistake. (Refers to earlier question) When looking at the Tuxedo cover photo, the beige one looks like a 'knit' and yet the lapel folds over nicely, which mine did not. Since this TG 726 is much "thicker/denser" than the other knit I was using (referred to in earlier question), I was hoping to make a jacket for work but know to stay away from folding lapels! Any suggestions for these 3 yards of fabric?

LOES' RESPONSE:

In this case, the Garbo would be a good choice for you. Don't button it! Leaving it open would give a nice vertical line. I recommend the Garbo jacket for that fabric and for you leaving it unbuttoned.

As for the folding lapels issue: When doing a 'folded lapel', fold the lapel first and then attach it (folded) to the body of the jacket.

ANOTHER QUESTION:

I have been looking at the fabric suggestions on Loes' patterns. What is the difference between a 1) knit 2) woven knit 3) double knit 4) stretch knit?

RESPONSE:

Generally speaking, knits have stretch and wovens do not. I think you are confused on the 'woven knit'. Have never heard of such a thing. Also stretch knit. Knits stretch. Patterns drafted for knit fabric have less ease as the stretch in the knit is part of the ease. Patterns for woven fabrics are drafted with more ease allowed. You may want to get a book covering the various types of fabrics and their nuances.
30. Bolero pattern question.

QUESTION:

I purchased the Bolero pattern a few months ago but have not tried it yet. I have some fitting issues and I wonder if I should make a sample for fitting purposes. Given that the fabrics used are somewhat drapey, what fabric would you suggest for a sample?

RESPONSE:

My patterns all require drapey fabrics. It is essential that whatever fabric you use - for a sample or for the finished product - must be drapey. You will not get an accurate fit evaluation unless you do so.
31. Lace Jacket Shoulder Pads

QUESTION:

I see that Loes uses lace in many garments. Does she still use shoulder pads in lace jackets? (I personally need them.) And if she does use them, what does she recommend for covering them: the same lace used in the garment or something else?

RESPONSE:

Yes, I use shoulder pads in lace jackets. I recommend covering them with a skin tone knit fabric. (Casual Eleance has a nude color microfiber knit which works well.)
32. Pant 'tweak' on Oxford Pants

QUESTION;

At the seminar, Loes advised me to "cut off" 1 inch of the pattern at the waistline to shorten front crotch of Oxford Pant. This was done only on the front tapering to nothing in the back (about 2 inches from the side seam). Would this apply to all her other patterns?

LOES' RESPONSE:

Usually for you this 'tweak' would be used on all of my patterns.
33. Mother of the Bride needs a pretty dress!

QUESTION: My daughter is getting married July 7th, and I need something gorgeous and comfortable to wear. The wedding will be in the evening, but it will still be majorly hot here in Alabama. It will be an outdoor wedding. The reception will be inside and outside. Her colors are red (blue red), pearl, and black. I'm a very fair-skinned blonde, blue eyes, so black is definitely out. I look like I am deathly ill when I wear black near my face.

I'm thinking of wearing a sleeveless dress with maybe a lace/sheer wrap/jacket/shrug. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I purchased some taupe lace which I intended to use for a shrug. I am thinking a lace jacket would look even better.

LOES' RESPONSE: I agree you should not wear the black next to your face. I suggest a lace jacket or for the hot weather a lace dress such as the Tank Dress or even the City Dress pattern worn over a 'slip'. A champagne colored lace would be my recommendation.

The lace purchased is not enough yardage. I suggest starting 'fresh'. Another champagne colored lace swatch and a cream colored microfiber swatch are being sent to you. Make the tank dress out of the champage lace and the slip out of the cream microfiber. You can use the tank dress pattern for the slip or use the 'cami' in the pattern and lengthen it.

Loes adds: This particular lace has beautiful scallops on the selvage. It has a lot of crosswise stretch and would not work for 'turning' the pattern to incorporate the scallops at the hemline. Instead, cut out the garment 'regularly' with the grain. Cut off the selvage leaving a seam allowance. Serge the scallops on at the hem edge for a beautiful hem finish.
34. Bolero Jacket Length Questions

QUESTION:

On the Bolero pattern, how many inches below the waist are version A and version B supposed to be?

ANSWER:

This pattern has nothing to do with the waist measurement. The bust measurement is the important measurement. Measure from the knob at the back of your neck to your waist. Compare the center back line of the pattern with your measurement. Adjust length if needed.

35. Rolled Hem Question - "Possibilities" -The Trip

QUESTION:

In "Possibilities" I see that Loes used a rolled hem on the woven tanks for the arms and necklines. I can't find any reference in the pattern instructions for this finish. I've been serging and turning under the edges for the wovens. Is she using a special rolled hem foot for her narrow hems? Is she turning under an 1/8" and then another 1/4"?

ANSWER:

You are right, the instructions are not in the pattern. This is a technique I teach at the Carmel Sewing Seminars. It is one you need to see rather than a written explanation. That is why it was not included in the pattern instructions.

A response from Lillee: Lillee forgot this was a "Seminar technique". Loes does not use a special rolled hem foot for this technique. Her machines are industrial and don't have such things! Even when demoing on a domestic machine, she does not use any special feet. I mentioned that I use an "edge foot" when I do rolled hems and/or topstitching. That is a typical edge foot available for most home sewing machines. Sorry to have caused the confusion. Keep on doing your serging, and turning under, and topstitching. Then come to a seminar in Carmel!! You'd love it!
36. What do I wear under a lace tank?

QUESTION:

What do I wear under a lace tank?

LOES' RESPONSE:

Wear a camisole. You can also layer the lace tank over another
tank. A very nice look is attained when making a pant and tank or a skirt and tank out of the same fabric. Then wear a lace tank over the 'fabric' tank. This is very nice for special occasions - weddings, cruise, etc. It is also cute wearing it w/jeans.

The cami can be sewn from the camisole pattern in the Loes Hinse Design Tank Group pattern. Or you can use the regular tank pattern.

Casual Elegance sells microfiber -nude and black which works well for making camisoles.

37. Kimono Jacket Pattern

QUESTION:

My question regards the note on instruction 3. "Start at raw edge of fabric sewing toward the center fold. Stitch both sides with the same side of collar facing up. The presser foot will move the fold a little bit off center. Allow this to happen. This will help create a natural roll in the collar when the collar is turned right side out. With this you have created an upper collar and under collar.

My question is which side is the upper collar, the one that was on the top during the sewing or the one on the bottom?

LOES' RESPONSE:

The one on the top.
38. "New Alternate" View B, Hepburn Pants

QUESTION:
I am reading the directins for the "New Alternate" Viwe B, Hepburn Pants, that was in the S Magazine, early spring, 2007. The way I read the write-up, you have eliminated the zipper AND the facings, making the "alternate" pant a pull-on, with an elastic waistband very similar to Loes' "normal" waistband. Can you confirm that I'm reading it correctly? I made a test pair, assuming that this is the way Loes and you meant it to be made, and it seems to work just fine, but I wanted to confirm it, as I can't seem to find anything to clarify it on any of my normal websites.

LOES' RESPONSE:

Yes, you are reading it correctly. The zipper and the facings are eliminated. The top of the elastic sits at the bottom of the waist. (almost a hip-hugger feel)

Sharon's additional comment:

Whenever you have questions pertaining to Loes' patterns, ask her. Either call her at her store or email the question to the "Chat" on this website. Loes understands her patterns and directions better than anyone. She created them. Don't depend on someone else's translation.

39. Hepburn Pant Question

QUESTION:

Is point B in the diagram at the top or the bottom of the elastic? That is, does the stitching go through the elastic or stop at the top of the elastic?

LOES ANSWER:

Point B is at the top of the elastic. The stitching stops at the top of the elastic.
40. Just Started Sewing with Loes Hinse Patterns

As I have just started sewing Loes Hinse patterns, I have a number of questions.

1. Is it possible to add pockets to the European Pant? I love the fit but I'm lost without pockets. I have tried the Hepburn Pant, View B, but I'd like something with a bit narrower leg too. Should I try the Oxford Pant with the slant pocket?

ANSWER:

You could use the simple side pocket in the Cruise Pant Pattern. However, the European Pant pattern is narrower in the hip. Adding a pocket to the narrower pant could result in the pocket 'showing through'. You would have to add more ease to accomodate that situation. You could also use the slant pocket in the Oxford pant pattern.

2. In addition to the tank top patterns, will any of the other blouse or top patterns layer under jackets? I'm particularly interested in something for woven fabrics with short sleeves. For example, could the Bergman Blouse work under a jacket because it is drafted with less ease? Could the sleeves be shortened using the method shown in S Magazine, Early Winter 2005, p. 12?

ANSWER:

Intended to be layered, all of my patterns are designed with a narrow armhole so that they easily fit under jackets. To eliminate bulk, it is crucial the fabric be light weight and drapey. The Casablanca as well as the Cowl Top pattern with short sleeves would work well.

3. For lace jackets (from either jacket or blouse patterns) are there any tricks for making buttonholes in lace? If buttonholes are not successful, what closures can be used instead of buttonholes and buttons? More often than not I wear jackets open but sometimes I do like to close them.

ANSWER:

Using a straight stitch, stitch a rectangle large enough to accomodate the button. Carefully slit the center. Additionally, silk covered snaps or a fabric loop with a hook or a small button could be used.

4. I've made View B of the Shirt Trio in a burn out velvet. It's too sheer for me and I need a slip. I was thinking that the slip length should fall within the hem of the over layer. I would use the over layer pattern, shorten it 2" and use a 1" hem. Would there be a better length for the slip? Should I use a different pattern?

ANSWER:

Use the same pattern. The finished length of the under layer should be a tad shorter ending in the hem allowance of the outer layer. The ending length of the under layer should not be visible.

5. To use the fold over elastic for the waist of the slip, how do I join it? Are there any tricks for applying fold over elastic when it's not a 1:1 ratio?

ANSWER:

Unlike 'regular' elastic which has the ends overlapped and stitched together, place right sides together and sew a narrow "seam" from the top of the elastic to the bottom using a 1/4" seam allowance. Divide the elastic in fourths or halves and attach as you would regular elastic using your serger or zigzag on your sewing machine.

6. For a dress effect with the burn out velvet skirt, should I use 2 layers for a top or blouse like the skirt or just one? I'm thinking about using the Bergman Blouse or the Princess Tank. I will need to make a camisole to match the slip in either case. Are there other patterns you would suggest instead?

ANSWER:

Make a camisole for the top using the camisole in the Tank Top Pattern. You could also use the regular tank top. Be sure the length of the camisole and the slip are both the same length as the outer layers. (Or ending in the hem allowance of the outer layer.) You need to see one layer on the top and on the bottom. Too many layers will destroy the look.

I haven't had has so much fun (and instant gratification) sewing in ages. The patterns either fit or are easily altered and (except for the Hepburn's) have gone together really quickly. I've gleaned a lot of information from the S Magazines and from the 2 articles Loes wrote for Threads.





41. Jacket Recommendation

QUESTION;

I am 5'2 with short legs and extra weight on my hips. Which of your jacket patterns would you recommend I start with? Any particular types of fabric I should select or avoid?

LOES' RESPONSE:

Look at this totally differently. Look at the whole picture not just the jacket. Look at the pants. Be sure they are the right pants. With the right pants, any jacket will work. A longer jacket such as the Lugano or the Kimono would not be good choices. But the 'Tweaked Kimono', short version on the Tweaking the Kimono CD would work well.

Generally speaking, pick any of my short jackets. Add high heels to add length.
42. Follow-up questions - pants

QUESTION: Follow up questions - What are the right pants. (This refers to the last question on jackets.

LOES RESPONSE:

Basic Pleat Pant, View B.
43. Possibilities Chat

QUESTION:

Loes suggests a pants liner for the double layer chiffon oxfords. What fabric should I use? The microfiber?

LOES'RESPONSE:

Yes, use the microfiber.

ANOTHER QUESTION:

How does Loes handle constructing a scarf from the lace which is quite narrow? Where is the best place to piece?

RESPONSE:

I do the scarves differently from time to time. The piecing is at the bottom. For the shop, I will cut the scarf from a lengthwise piece and then cut out tanks from the remainder of the width. If I want to add a piece to the bottom of the scarf, I take it from the side. If the scarf is made from the width of the fabric (selvage to selvage), add pieces to the two ends. The pieces can be as big as you want. The larger the "piece", the longer the scarf. You can also make the scarf the length of the width, sew it together, place the seam in the middle of one side (which becomes the back), and topstitch in place near the edge. This especially is a good choice for a selvage that you want to incorporate. I always piece on the ends.
44. Jacket Pattern Suggestion

QUESTION:

I have been reading about your popular patterns on the Sewing Guild message boards. Now I’m ready to try a jacket pattern. Do you have any recommendations for my body type? My measurements are 36 1/2—29—34 1/2 and am 5’4” tall. My arms and legs are slender. Thank you for any input you may have.

LOES FIRST RESPONSE: You have a very good body! I need to have a few questions answered before giving my response. First of all, the jacket doesn’t work alone. It ties in with a bottom. So, do you plan to wear a jacket with pants or a skirt or both. And if a combination, which would you wear it with the most? Then what are the clothes for? What environment? Where do you live? Wear them for work? For casual? Where would you most likely wear the garments?

ANSWER TO LOES' REQUEST FOR MORE INFORMATION:

I live in the San Francisco Bay Area. I’m always looking for clothes that I can wear to work. My job duties with a county mental health system range from meeting with mental health clients to representing them in Social Security Administration hearings; in other words, from very casual to “courtroom business.” I prefer pants to skirts, although I do have a skirt or two in my wardrobe. Recently, I bought enough Taupe Wool Blend Herringbone (FF 608) to make a jacket because the swatch was so lovely and because I thought I should wear something other than black. I’m Asian, with dark hair graying around my face, and beige skin.

Thank you for your input. I thought Loes’ jackets and soft suits would be perfect for work as well as for weekends. I would be very interested in whatever pants you think I should try.

LOES’ RESPONSE:

First of all, you can wear just about anything! The Bolero, the Retro, and the short “Tweaked Kimono” sewn from a drapey fabric would be some jacket suggestions. Keep the jackets short. Keep black as a basic in your wardrobe. Start with a pair of black Oxford Pants(Oxford Pant Pattern)and a black top with long sleeves and/or a black tank. Wear the taupe herringbone jacket with this.

Keeping black as your basic color, add other colors for variety doing more tanks and Bianca Sweater Pattern tops. Keep the tops a shorter length. Use tanks, tops, and accessories to bring in colors.

For another jacket, a black and white tweed would be a good choice. (Casual Elegance currently has a couple of them.) Start your wardrobe with these suggestions and keep me informed. Ask as you go for more help in building your wardrobe.
45. Sewing/Fitting Questions

QUESTIONS:

1. On the European Pant, I am having trouble adding the skirt/pant hook and eye so that it doesn't show. As the zipper extends to the top of the waist, there's not much room to attach the hook or eye as the overlap must go over the zipper slider too. Is there a particular type of hook and eye that you recommend? If so, are they available through Casual Elegance? Are there any tricks to installing the hook and eye so that they don't show?

LOES' RESPONSE:

If needed, lower the zipper allowing more room for the hook/eye insertion. The flat hooks/eyes are recommended.

2. The pattern envelope specifies the size of button to use. If I'm going to use a larger or smaller button, how much do I increase or decrease the extension beyond the centre front. For example, the Garbo Jacket pattern notes that one of the photos uses 1 1/4" buttons rather than the 7/8" suggested. Did Loes increase the button extension when she did this?

LOES' RESPONSE: Yes.

3. When I look at the photos on the pattern envelopes for blouses and jackets, the shoulders look somewhat extended but when I look at the pattern pieces, the sleeve caps look like they are designed for a shoulder that is not extended. Where are the sleeve seams intended to be?

LOES' RESPONSE:

The sleeve seams are intended to be at the shoulder. Shoulder pads have been added to the jackets which may distort the image somewhat.

4. In the Early Winter 2006 edition of S Magazine, there are instructions for doing a full bust adjustment. I am working on the Garbo Jacket and I raised the front shoulder/neck point by 5/8". I also raised the underarm but I did not do the little bubble in the side seam. I did not adjust the depth of the V neck. The jacket rides up at the front and has diagonal wrinkles pointing to the bust point which suggests to me that I may need a side bust dart. I was wondering how much more I can raise the front shoulder/neck point before I need to add a side bust dart. I need almost another 1" to make the front hem level.

LOES' RESPONSE:

That alteration is more generally used for tanks but can be incorporated in other garments. Without actually seeing your body, it is difficult for me to make a suggestion regarding the jacket fit. This is the type of thing we deal with at my Sewing Seminars. When I see the person, I can evaluate where the problem lies. Very often, it is opposite of what was originally expected. It is nearly impossible to suggest something without actually visually seeing the issue.

5. For view E of the Tank Dress Group, the camisole, I'm going to use the nude microfibre from Casual Elegance. This fabric is stretchier than some of the other knits. The pattern instructions don't suggest anything special for working with this type of knit. I am concerned that hemming with a straight stitch may not be stretching enough. I don't have a serger that does cover stitch so I'm wondering what other options there may be.

LOES' RESPONSE:

That fabric is not a problem. We use it all the time. Try serging off the edge and turning under a small amount and topstitching the hem. It can be left just serged. Or do a rolled hem. Also, check the tension on your machine - and differential feed on your serger.

6. On the Cruise Pant, the side seams are edge stitched. The fabric I used does not need to be pressed when it comes out of the drier. I notice that the side seam is a little puckered. Is there something I should do differently the next time?

LOES' RESPONSE:

Be sure to slightly pull on the fabric when topstitching.

Further questions were sent to the person regarding bust measurement, pattern size, and fabric used on the Cruise Pant.

She indicated the fabric used for the Cruise pants was a mystery fabric - probably mostly polyester. Every fabric will react differently. Always test on a scrap. Also, you may not always need to do the topstitching. My patterns are designed for fabric with drape. That frequenlty means the fabric has some 'give'. You need to think about the fabric you are using. How is it going to react when I topstitch. Try a sample. That will help you decide what to do. You really need to think about each sewing project and the fabric you are using. Not all fabrics respond exactly the same.

QUESTIONER'S RESPONSE W/MORE INFO:

I'm using the XXL for the jacket pattern but I did adjust it to use XL through the shoulders in addition to the full bust adjustment of 5/8". My bust measurement is 45" [and I wear an F or G cup bra which I believe fits me properly]. My underbust measurement (bra band) is about the same as my waist measurement--in other words there is a roll between the bust and waist. My shoulders do roll forward and I have a slightly rounded upper back. I have not adjusted the pattern for these issues. I did take the Garbo jacket to my sewing group meeting this week. They mentioned that the jacket did stand away from my body at the back neck and pinned out a dart at the centre back of about 3/4" (2 x 3/8") total. One solution would be to add a centre back seam but is there a better solution? They confirmed that centre front rides up about 1". I know that I could solve that by lengthening the front below the armhole by 1" and taking out a side bust dart with a 1" uptake.

The first Casablanca blouse I made in a soft rayon cutting it as an XXL and it was too big especially at the shoulders. The second time I made the Casablanca blouse, I used XL through the body and L through the shoulders with the 5/8" full bust adjustment. The fabric I used for this blouse was an embroidered cotton which really crinkled up when it was machine washed and dried. I stabilized all the curved edges and hems with elastic--treated it as an unstable knit basically. I did not press it at all. So, given the fabric, I'm not sure if it's a good indication of what to expect in the way of fit although I'm actually quite happy with the end result.

My question really is where is the armhole seam designed to be on the body at the shoulder--follow the crease and sit right at the hinge or be slightly extended as the photos. I suppose for the boutique, you really want a bit of flexibility in this area and by adjusting the shoulder pad with the velcro you can easily adjust a bit in the shoulder for jackets. Blouses especially if they are not under jackets look fine with a slightly extended shoulder.

The fabric I used for the cruise pant was a mystery fabric. I think it probably contains mostly polyester.



After getting further information regarding size, pattern, and fabric used, it became very apparent to Loes that she cannot adequately recommend pattern adjustments when there are several issues going on. She would need to visually see you, not just rely on written words. Her techniques are usually the opposite of the traditional approach. And the fabric she uses and recommends is intended to work with her designs. And different fabrics are going to produce a different fit. We see this all the time at the seminars. On the Casablanca blouse, she said it sounded like you were making the blouse too big and too fitted. The fabric used for the blouse should drape. The embroidered cotton would not be a drapey fabric. So, you will get an entirely different fit and look from that fabric. IF you are happy with the way it looks, that is important! The fabrics used by Loes drape on the body. Good fit is important, but the drape of the fabric flows on the body producing an illusion of fit. The fabric is not intended to mold around the body.

You would really enjoy and benefit from attending one of her Sewing Seminars. You would get personal attention from her. She can then see you, analyze your situation, and make her recommendations.

I know this doesn't answer any of your specific fit issues. For the time being, this is the best we can do. In your case, Loes would really need to see your body and also the fabric you are using. It sounds as if you enjoy sewing for yourself. That is great!
46. Patterns/Fabric

COMMENTS FROM LOES:

My patterns are made for modern fabric.

Nothing is standard on modern fabrics. Every fabric is different. It is essential to master the fabric. That is one reason we stress testing a swatch of the fabric. You assess the fabric and its behavior. Sew a little on the fabric to test its behavior. It may be the same content as another fabric labeled the same and react differently. That's the way it is now. You need to think about it and make your decision about how you are going to proceed.

It is not cut and dried.

You used to buy a pattern and sew several skirts, as an example, out of cotton. They all reacted basically the same.

Times have changed!

47. Jacket Pattern w/Italian Blouse

QUESTION:

I was wondering which jacket patterns work best with the Italian Blouse underneath.

LOES' RESPONSE:

All of the jacket patterns would work. However, I would suggest the Garbo with no collar as a first choice. I would suggest the deeper "V" neckline in View A. If you prefer the shorter length, use View B for the length.
48. Garbo Jacket Facing

QUESTION:

My Garbo Jacket - in a soft wool spongy kind of fabric - has facings at the bodice which are swinging to the side. My plan is to re-understitch, then topstitch, then tack the facing at the shoulders. But I wanted to ask your opinion first so that I don't re-do the problem. Do you feel this is a problem of execution...or as suggested on the other chat world, do you recommend I cut down the size of the facing to avoid this. It is going to be a lovely jacket if only this were fixed. What do you feel I might do to remedy this problem?

LOES' RESPONSE:

First of all, do not cut down the size of the facing. You can get the reverse problem. The pattern pieces are measured by computer. They should be perfect. A couple of things could have happened.Be sure you have cut on grain. If the facing is not perfectly on grain it can cause the type of problem you are having.

Did you prewash the fabric? If you did, there is a chance it stretched out. Before cutting, did you press the fabric well - crossgrain and with the grain with lots of steam and pressure? This is very important to do.

To fix, I suggest you take facings off and press the facings and the jacket very well. Compare the facing with the jacket body to see if they are the same size. Adjust if necessary and stitch the facings back on.





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